Monday, July 16, 2012

Argentina: Buenos Aires

"The city can swallow up a person.

I long for the open space and stars over my head. I long for clean streets (of course, we happen to be here right as the garbage drivers are on strike) and clean parks (like the green grass in Puerto Madero for example - a cab ride away).

It helps that there are plants on the roof top terrace here in the comforts of our Palermo Soho loft; Manly likes to smell the jasmine. He’s smelling the tender white blossoms as I write this.

I am grateful for baths. On the road, it’s been difficult living without them. But, now we have a bath tub. And it has made all the difference. As a family, we have all benefited, clean and renewed beings – both doggies recently got a long overdue bath so Biela smells like a Pantene hair model.

I am grateful to see such diversity in our neighborhood in Palermo. Middle eastern, asian, african - all of different colors and creeds. Feels like home. New experience: speaking castellano with asian peeps at the chinese grocery stores. Cool.

I am grateful to see people paint over graffiti. I caught the eye of a man who was painting the outside walls of his arabian pizza restaurant. Green paint on paint brush, our eyes met for a second and I smiled. He smiled. 

In other respects it has made all the difference to have the exchange of strangers, the support of friends and invisible angels…this is in itself a different landscape, rich with textures and resonance.

I met up with a lovely friend who I hadn't seen for many years at a milonga. Tango really is the soul of Buenos Aires.

So, in a way, it's been wonderful to experience this city again. When I first came to Buenos Aires, almost 3 years ago, it felt like a city of interiors – hard to access, hidden behind gates. And now, now it’s a place where the impossible can happen like selling a car (bye bye Boris) or meeting up with an old friend you thought you lost touch with...

Funny how things are - when given a another chance to experience a place."

San Jorge Church, Palmero Soho
Obelisco
big boulevards

puerto madero


rush hour traffic

Sunday, July 15, 2012

Tango Nights: Salon Canning

I've known Oksana since my university days. I can still hear her radiant scream when I walked for my diploma on graduation day. You know that dreaded stage walk – when all of a sudden everyone has their own cheering section, equipped with noisemakers, pots and pans and elephants. Well, I had crickets and Oksana. Anyways, many years have passed and we lost touch. And then like a kismet surprise, a kiss-the-ground-miracle we meet up in Buenos Aires! We toast champagne over dinner followed by a milonga (one of the oldest in Buenos Aires, Salon Canning) – a gathering where you can dance and watch, the kumasutra of all dances – tango.

Nothing's changed with the girl. She still glows. Still sweet as a pavlova topped with summer strawberries (and her lovely bf Adrian-man too). What I admire most of all about her is – not only is she a beautiful soul – full of passion, humor and kindness, but out of the university bunch (myself included), she was the one who brazenly followed her dreams. Oksana is an amazing artist AND she dances tango! (I have so much respect.)

As a milonga virgin, I am spellbound. The sheer electricity on the dance floor. The charge of emotions. Women on men. Men on women. Eyes closed. Body heat colliding. Intimate beating breath. Tension, intent, tenderness. The battle to be seen. The battle to express or control. The placement of hand. Desire with a dusting of seduction. Past, present and future. All gathered at the flick of a turn or in the folds of an embrace.

There are no coordinated moves in tango, as we learn from Adrian. There are steps. You listen to the music, your bodies meet, and you move.  Every time you dance, it’s a different movement, a different take - based on the music, the partner, and the interpretation. Kind of like life.

Realization: We are spectators, longing to dance. We long to dance to the rhythm of our music.

Here's to old friends and to dancing to our music eyes closed.


Love,
mb


ps pictures really don’t do it justice...

---

2am @ Salon Canning


Oksana and Adrian's tango foot steps...



A pause to change partners...


Lots of onlookers and old timers too


Oksana and Adrian



Saturday, July 14, 2012

Der Kuss

A piece inspired by Klimt and (Randall) Kenan. Enjoy...

The jab. The jab that dooms all motion and coagulates both blood and bowels. The jab from lucifer’s pitchfork, so destined it fits perfectly, so rueful, so deserved, not since the early days when Tai stepped off the boat, erasing all traces of wife and baby he left behind. Those days when he ate a Swanson’s frozen dinner every night – the same TV tray that kept his new American identity alive, helped him to practice knife and fork etiquette even – each day for one year. That’s when it began, the phantom ulcer pain, the price to start over…

Tai didn’t want that wretched jab. Not in the water that purified his synchronized arms and legs – his daily laps in the pool at the elite Bay Club of San Francisco. Tai was on his 20th lap, reaching the cave of unconsciousness not dissimilar to a baby inside its hot tub womb. He was swimming to the canvas– enveloped now in shimmering gold leaf, as each stroke evened out, drawing him into the painting’s details. It invited him; soothed him even. His body waddling inside Klimt’s Der Kuss – his favorite painting. The flatness of his soles launched off the pool’s edges, torpedoing into the kelp grass and spring blossoms that tickled his toes. More colors emerged with eyes closed beneath goggles. Before him, a tapestry of legos: yello spinning cymbals, red, purple and green jellyfishes, onyx rectangles. He wanted to know how these colors were mixed, how Klimt did it? The painting stretching and expanding before him – undulating, quivering. He crawled into her yogurt skin, the woman who kneeled, an act of surrender or absolution. With each stroke, he glided into her mane – untangled, as it was, moving up into her crown of blue, white and green daisies.

But that jab. That jab kept getting deeper. Too calculating – too swift, the stroke of seppuku. Over and over again, Tai felt the stabs, leaving him deflated like a kicked dog. And Tai didn’t want to come back from this painting either, oh, no he didn’t - didn’t want to leave this oasis of gold, the woman’s hair, not right as he was turning into the intersection of those rose petal lips.

At that moment, when the swimmer begins to claw for surface, arms no longer light as wings, but heavy and loaded with soggy skin, Tai started to lose the automatic rhythm of his breathing. The woman’s mouth opened before him, a sinking black hole of trash and undigested vomit. Jab, jab, jab. Tai stopped midway in the lap lane and clutched his hairless belly. Was he breathing too quickly or not enough? Did he forget to take his TUMs? He could not recover.

Tai hoisted his body from the pool, lugged wrinkled toes onto heated marble floors. He tore off the goggles that suctioned around eye sockets, the look of a swollen bee. No time even, to grab an Egyptian cotton towel neatly folded and stacked on the pool benches. He limped clumsily to the men’s locker room, to the closest bathroom stall - any place he could hide and collapse immediately.

Once inside a stall, he reminded himself of his breath, slowly counting to 10, the jabbing faded from the stall, from the gym itself and like a spectre gone.

Tai sat up, wet with salinated pool water now mingling with sweat, made a seat of the toilet. He placed his hands over his head – laughing, only to hold back tears. Something slid under the door. A tray of something. He studied it like the faces of the homeless who panhandled at the Tenderloin. Curious and repulsed. Something didn’t measure up. It smelled too foul, too sewage-like. Tray in hand, Tai opened the door. Elmer Fudd Dumbfounded. Perhaps the cleaning crew dropped trash meant for dumpster bags? But in front of his stall? And how did it slide right in front his feet? But that tray looked too familiar. Hit too close to home. A part of his past he’d rather nuke forever (he realized the pun later). 

“Would you like me to take that away for you sir?” a young, greek chiseled Bay Club employee asked him. “Uh, yes. Thanks...” Tai said, realizing on top of it, his unsuitable half nakedness.

But it was real. An aluminum tray, 12 by 5 inches: the moldy glop of grey gravy on top of colon clogging mashed potatoes, the vile venom of Salisbury steak, the eraser head nubs of carrot and pea, and that synthetic soil colored cake he used to cherish. His first taste of America – now putrid and void of all life. He ate this meal for 365 days, the sentence to brokeness and bachelordom. From now on until the day of Tai’s reckoning- this tray would appear: in his warehouse loft, behind the forgotten easel and paintbrush coffee can, wedged into post office box, graffiti-ed onto the windshield of his vintage ’72 BMer – stalking Tai, beseeching Tai, hearkening Tai. Back. A message only Tai could decipher. But Tai had no idea what it all meant and why it was there – that decomposing TV dinner served perfectly cold.

By Mai Brehaut

wikipedia.org

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